
Herein lies my journal for my RISD winter session class in Costa Rica, which was in partnership with EARTH University to work on replicable, sustainable ways to reuse waste products.
PRELIMINARY RESEARCH
With so many people working for good, fighting as hard as they can in some cases, can the collective power of impersonal corporate greed and the apathy of the rest of us really prevent positive change? I would shout from the rooftops about this stuff, but I am simply not connected with those whose minds need changing. And somehow even my preaching to choir gets confronted with devil’s advocate libertarianism at times. So today I am thankful for those who do effect change, and for the landscape architects and my classmates and teachers who inspire me daily with their serious, sincere desire to change the world and their willingness to learn how to do it well. With the world so messed up, there’s all the more opportunity to make a positive mark. And no reason not to.
Though I was supposedly working with Ari, I went to print out my own research summary when he failed to send me his. I wound up talking to Mickey, who was also working on his summary without his undergrad partner, but mostly about how biodigesters could fit into a larger system and how simple pit outhouses probably just leach uncomposted waste into the soil. Oh Salanna! We came up with an idea for dealing with the half-composted sludge from the biodigesters, though: put it in ponds, from which you could skim the scum for fertilizer, until they get filled up. By then the microorganisms should have done their jobs, and you’ll have wonderfully rich soil to plant trees in. Meanwhile you can start another pond to put your waste in. I wonder if there is a better word than waste? Or maybe it just gets a bad rap. After all, in natural systems, wastefulness is actually good because it sets up niches for other organisms to make use of the different kinds of material. The trick in our case is to make human (artificial) waste bio-available.
PINEAPPLE JUICE
The cicadas are chirping outside, ready to lull me asleep again after all these years. Costa Rica! But let me back up to yesterday, when I left off. Our 9am class meeting to present our research went well, except Ari showed up half an hour late. The other groups’ stuff was generally interesting, though. I spent yesterday afternoon doing last minute errands, namely buying moleskin and doing laundry. I noodled about until 7:45 or so, and then went to sleep early. My dad offered to give me a wakeup call, but I just set two alarms… for 1:45am! I got up no problem, a little cotton-headed, but a quick run down to the BEB helped. Thus began the epic day of travel.
A shuttle to the airport, a quick flight to New York, an adventure of discovering the wonders of the New York airport — Muji and a salad bar! — before a long 5 hours of flying, mostly spent watching television and playing Tiny Wings, and landing in Liberia. Customs, no sweat, and we ate at a nearby restaurant with an amazing plate of black beans, sauteed vegetables, and a fried plantain. Plus fresh pineapple juice. I will eat like a king!
But we weren’t out of the bushes yet. Heck, we hadn’t even reached them. We stopped briefly at the grocery store, where I discovered that here lemons are green on the outside and orange on the inside, and that my middle school Spanish is surprisingly unforgotten, and then we got on our blue bus for another few hours. The landscape went from flat and grassy to lush ravines of banana and mango trees, with occasional horse pastures and clusters of colorful houses. Finally we climbed into the mountains, meeting a crest lined with wind turbines, and down to lake Arenal right as the sun was setting. With only bathroom break at a real German bakery, we trucked right around the lake to the opposite side, and now we are at a bunkhouse at a little eco-resort farm called Rancho Margo. In the dark all I really got to see were the leaf-cutter ants our driver Johnny pointed out with his flashlight. But tomorrow, I will see the entire fabulous rainforest world!
TRUTH OR DARE
There is no sound dampening in the bunk house, so I woke up to everyone else waking up. This turned out to be okay, because I got to go watch the cows being milked before breakfast. Apparently the calves get to finish up the milk after the humans are done, and it was cute to watch them in the pen next to the feeding and milking building. Even cuter were the piglets: as we approached their muddy enclosure, the wee ones ran over all at once to see if we had brought them something to eat. Quickly disappointed, they returned to playing around, digging up dirt, and bugging the adults. It was disturbing to know that these pigs would be dinner soon enough, and more-so to see the same people cooing at the piglets in the morning and praising the taste of pork in the evening. During breakfast we ended up talking about why I’m vegan and how agriculture would work if everyone was vegetarian. I think it must be possible to farm plants sustainably for everyone, and the fact that animals are part of many traditional systems does not does not mean we should develop our modern systems with the same elements. And it’s not our duty to give animals a better life than in the wild, and if it were we shouldn’t be killing them for that privilege. I still want to include animals in our systems, but there must be a better way to do it! In the meantime I have to figure out how to live in an evil world, and here in paradise the flaws are all the more visible.
After breakfast we did a tour of Rancho Margo. They have a cacao tree! With a cacao pod! I learned that the whole banana stalk needs to be cut down after it produces one crop of bananas, but fortunately there are stands of them constantly producing more stalks. This whole place is populated with banana stands, with a groundcover of grass and what I think is ginger. There are hibiscus, lemons, coconut palms, tropical almonds, and countless other species. A concrete-paver path winds throughout the green carpet and broad-leaf canopy, leading to bungalows and the various farm outbuildings and fields. All the roofs are colonized by bryophytes and other plants, creating dripping green roofs in only two years. The hot water is heated by going through the compost heap, though when I tried to enjoy this particular fruit of the earth apparently I got fiddly bits of the shower wrong and had to take it cold. The animal agriculture parts of the system were pretty well integrated, but while the farm imports very little, the gardening methods seem standard organic. Nothing permaculture, everything in neat little tilled single-crop rows.
The afternoon was devoted to sketching, and then Mickey, Lissy, Angela, Mykel and I went on a brief hike “up the road”. This road was pretty muddy going through the fields. And then it turned into a trail cutting through the jungle… and several rivulets. By the end we all had muddy shoes and calves, and I almost lost my shoes to the muck. We returned just in time for Johnny the bus driver to take us to a geothermally heated stream. It was amazing! Heated to perfect bath temperature, with a strong current bubbling at my back like a jacuzzi. Surrounded by lush vegetation, in a hidden locals-only (and probably Lonely Planeters) hot spring spot, it soaked my anxieties and bug bites away.
Now I’m listening to my comrades play a truth-or-dare drinking game, with Mickey being the most open and giggling I’ve seen him. I’m almost falling asleep despite the excitement. So today I am grateful for the freshly picked food cooked with locally produced energy, and for Arenal being tame enough to warm the hot springs without exploding.
THE SLEEPY VOLCANO
People are so loud in the late hours of the night and the early hours in the morning that it’s difficult to get a good night’s sleep! But up by 7 to be out on the bus to Arenal by 8:30 we were, ready for a sunny day adventure at the volcano. Our guide was knowledgable and told us all about the sequence of Arenal’s recent activity. It only became active again in 1968 after centuries of dormancy, and after the Chilean earthquake a couple of years back, it stopped being as active. I’m glad I made it here back in middle school, when you could see it spewing lava every night.
I had been worried my five-finger shoes wouldn’t like the lava fields much, but most of the hike was through second growth forests and cane fields with soft sandy trails. We learned about the sloth’s favorite tree, cecropia, whose leaves make them high, and about the various epiphytic bromeliads and lianas. When we finally made it to the rocky bit, I climbed with ease to the vantage point, where we had an excellent view of Arenal Lake and the “brown” side of the volcano, with ash clouds rolling down the slopes.
We got back and ate lunch — man can I stuff myself here, I feel like I will gain many pounds, all made of beans — and Mickey pushed us to go right back out again to climb the local Mirador trail. Mickey and Lissy actually went ahead and went much farther, but Justin led the rest of us gamely up the steep muddish trail to some breathtaking vistas from a little hill between two inlets of the lake. There was also a trail cut by the leafcutter ants, and we watched them and chatted for a while before heading back to the ranch.
German dignitaries were visiting the ranch this evening, so all the farm hands took over our common space at the bunkhouse and we took refuge from their rowdy loudness in the bar. There we played chess and rummy interspersed with dinner, eventually surrounded by Germans in suits milling about and enjoying the Spanish music that I couldn’t help swaying to.
There is a lightning bug in my bed, and a moment ago in my hair — the second I have ever seen besides that one time when I was three years old. Good luck for me, I hope, and I wish it good luck find its light-mate!
JOHNNY’S NIGHT TOUR
Armadillos, baby. Two of ‘em! After dinner Johnny, Caitrin, Beth, and I went on a night tour of La Flor, and in the process caught in our flashlight beams a deer, a frog, a huge moth, the aforementioned armadillos, and Johnny battled a small scorpion. The stars, when we turned our flashlights off and I put my glasses on, were crisp and jewel-like in the sky, more numerous than I have seen since Hawaii.
We arrived at La Flor after hours of driving and a pit stop at the German Bakery. Oh, and some howler monkeys hanging out on the electrical wires! I miss the lush jungle, and the farm here is much less integrated. In fact, they export their mangos, and their rice is milled elsewhere! The food suffers as a result, and for dinner they didn’t even have frijoles (beans). But see how quickly we get spoiled?
We got a tour from the assistant director, Christina, and an introduction to La Flor’s mission by the director, Carlos. Lots of warnings about snakes and falling coconuts. My main issue seems to be these little biting bugs that leave bloody pinpricks on my legs, though, leading me to wonder if I should go for the poisonous DEET or at least see what the symptoms of Lyme disease are!
Caitrin found a friend in a little lizard traveled calmly on her sleeve for an hour and a half, and we found some monstrous spiders in our bunkhouse besides. This place is crawling with critters. Fortunately there is plenty of shade from the campus trees and surrounding dry tropical forest, because the rest of the region is open agricultural fields. It is hot, but the breeze makes it pleasant. The campus here is set up like a village, similar to Rancho Margo, except all the out-buildings are Spanish style instead of treehouse hippie style. It is a bit eerie since no faculty are around, only a few service workers and Christina besides us. I’m not sure what I think about it, as a school or as a place I’m living, but it feels a little like a beach place, and the flatness makes it much more accessible to exploration. As long as they take my tip that they should feed me beans every meal, I think it will be an enjoyable place and a good environment to work on my ideas for alternative agriculture.
I just played one game of gin rummy, but I busted out after I won. It’s an early day tomorrow, made earlier because Lissy and I are going to try making a habit of running. Apparently the showers are cold, so I’ll have to be hot to compensate. Now a bird is making silly noises outside… I think today I am most thankful for the wildlife, and for getting to experience so many parts of Costa Rica, and for learning Spanish as I go. Maybe I will try to get an internship on the Caribbean side for next summer!
POVERTY SAFARI
I seem to remember the howler monkeys being active at night, but I woke up to them this morning, foraging in the trees right across the field from the bunkhouse. I watched them, mamas with babies and young ones and regular adults, and they watched me, too. Not scared though — they soon made their way to the trees right outside our sleep space! Caitrin was also up, and we spotted some green parrots, too. They make almost human noises, and can learn to speak if you catch one illegally. Lissy, Ari, and I went for a run after that — it felt so good to just cut loose, and I was proud to make it a full half hour after months only running in place and doing hundred-ups. Before breakfast, too.
We toured Liberia today, getting a history lesson and a rundown on local life in Guanacaste. It’s supposedly a major city for the region, but it barely feels like a city with its colonial era buildings and nothing really beyond three stories, if any are even that tall. Still, it was vibrant and commercial, and had that well-used feel of a place that never even thought about urban renewal.
The afternoon was spent at a squatter community outside of Liberia called Martina Bustos. People live in similar houses as the neighborhoods closer to the city, except made of scrap metal and plywood. The land is hard volcanic ash mixed with silica, covered in shrub grass and scraggly oaks. The wind was spectacular, though! We visited the community center that RISD kids worked with last year, where women and children who normally go through garbage for food to eat and recyclables to sell can learn how to make handicrafts and sell hydroponic vegetables. Then we went to one of their homes, which actually seemed pleasant enough with a fridge, television, papaya tree, smiling healthy kids, and clean water from a communal tap down the street. Not much, but a good start — a house, basic amenities, and a good community. We all of course had a million ideas of how to improve things ten minutes in, but it feels a little presumptuous to think that they haven’t thought of a lot of them already and have reasons why they aren’t yet a reality. An outsider’s view is good, but I think it’s probably better to help people take a step back from their own lives and see what they really need and generate solutions. This self-reflection is a privilege, but one that should be granted more often since it allows for long-term planning.
Anyway, it felt weird to be there just watching, like we were on poverty safari. I wonder what the locals thought about us? I hope they’re proud of what they built, which is a 3500 person town from scratch and other people’s trash.
A bunch of folks spent the afternoon tracking down a cake for Mickey’s birthday, and before long Johnny came in to say the La Flor security guy had seen coyotes. Off we all trekked, through the dark and under the stars. I couldn’t help notice that Justin and Saja were arm in arm, and I have to say I’m a little jealous. And I’m not sure of whom. Interesting! But people were chatting, and a horde of people can’t really sneak up on a coyote, so in the end all we spotted was a little rattle snake. Makes me worry that they won’t actually stay out of my way at night.
THE CLARK KENT OF COSTA RICA
I have a new favorite place in the world: Finco la Anita. It’s a farm up in the rain forest just over the mountains, where they grow ornamental ginger, palms for flower arrangements, heart of palm, and many food species for their kitchen including papaya, oranges, bananas, passionfruit, starfruit, pineapples, and avocados. All my favorites! Plus they have started growing cacao, but not for chocolate: they want to market it as something you grind and brew like coffee. We got to try their roasted beans, whole, and though they were bitter, I was excited about the idea of drinking brewed hot chocolate. Alas! When the time came, it was made with milk! But the cacao was not even the best part. Pablo is the owner, and he gave the tour, starting with a demonstration of making heart of palm ceviche that would marinate while we took a tractor ride into the fields. He spoke about composting in place around the plants, interplanting species to support each other, and the need to support the local community. All this without having heard of permaculture! He also has a strong aesthetic sense, and he tries to plant his crops in attractive arrangements because he believes evolution makes things beautiful as well as functional. A man after my own heart.
Then he showed us the cabins of his growing tourism business, which he meticulously designed with details like a visiting porch, built-in reading lights, and screened bathroom made private by the positions of the cabins. Everything was so well crafted and well thought out, and Pablo always talked about how what he did could enrich the lives of locals by teaching them woodworking skills and providing examples of sustainable systems. Okay, plus he named the farm after his wife, Anna, and built A’s into the main ranch building. I am going to try my darnedest to get a summer internship here, and I will be very sad if I have to choose between La Anita and GGN.
In the early morning a bunch of us went for a walk in La Flor, through agricultural trails the color and consistency of cocoa powder. Undutched. The best part was checking another animal off the Costa Rica bingo card: coatis! A whole troupe crossed the trail in front of us, including a couple babies. Then we had to hustle back for breakfast, where I was sad to see a lack of gallo pinto. Faced with a long day and only some corn flakes and fruit to get me going, I asked if they had any, and then felt totally awkward and awful when they actually went and got me some. So nice of them, but I felt embarrassed for a long time after. Johnny asked me how I slept, and I said “asi asi” — my back was actually sore because the springs were digging into my back. Then when we returned in the evening, there was a new mattress! I’m a bit worried that people will think me a high-maintenance whiny girl, and that’s on top of my normal anxieties about being socially inept.
One last thing about today, though, to keep me from dwelling: we saw a sloth! I don’t know how Johnny keeps spotting these things, but he saw it eating cecropia leaves at he edge of he forest at a fork in the road. Caitrin and I were practically tripping out of the bus, we couldn’t wait to see it closer! And later he spotted two toucans. Finally he pointed out the window excitedly exclaiming something in Spanish and we all looked out to see… Christina translated him as saying “ant”. Yeah, I don’t think his wildlife spotting powers are that good. And the tracks we saw last night for coyotes and a “snake”? Mickey had been giggling so much because he had been there in the morning and the tracks were already there — except for the snake track, which was just him dragging a stick on the ground. I thought something was fishy when we were walking the opposite direction as the coyote sounds were coming from!
DWARF MANGOS
The morning was spent getting a tour of the farm, most of it checking out the biodigester and watching our guide burn methane. We also got to see some mango growing experiments involving dwarfing the trees by pruning their roots like bonsais, and got a quick jaunt down to where the two rivers crossing La Flor meet.
I keep looking at my legs and being disturbed by the awful red spots that are my bug bites. Maybe I should have been giving in to the DEET after all, but even some of those using it have as many bites as me. At least they don’t itch, but one is actually swollen and tender, and I worry that I’ll get some disease or infection. Michael said I could use her natural bug repellant, so I will try that and wear long pants when I can. Which might be a good idea anyway since my pale legs show off the welts extra well.
GRASS-EATING MACHINES
Yesterday was pretty low key. I went running with Lissy in the morning, went swimming in the pool in the afternoon, and we spent the rest of the day working on our class’s definition of sustainability. Caitrin, Mykel, and I worked well together as a group, but when all the groups came together, there was so much talking over each other I almost gave up trying to be heard. Yet miraculously, I was asked to write something on the board near our deadline, and suddenly we all agreed on that one sentence. As our entire definition. And you know what? I think it’s a good one!
Today we got up at 6:15 to leave by 7:00. We took the bus all over Guanacaste, from the Pacific Coast at La Cruz to channels carrying Lake Arenal water across the province, to the town of Tilaran for lunch, to Carlos’s family’s cattle farms. Carlos, if you recall, is the head hancho at La Flor. One of his brothers runs a dairy business in the rain forest, the other a grass-fed beef ranch on the windswept hills at the continental divide. The idea was to look at the “life zones” so we can draw a transect tomorrow, but I was captivated by trying to think of ways to replace dairy farms with non-dairy milk production that would allow he forest to return to the pasture lands.
It’s funny, because these are the sorts of prime examples of family-run, eco-conscious, small-scale farms that proponents of animal agriculture hold up as ethical alternatives to industrial, concentrated feeding lots. Yet Mykel and Lissy were both expressing their interest in giving up meat and dairy by the end of the day. Seeing the cows stuck in an endless loop of being impregnated only to be discarded when they stop being productive, and the calves forced to eat grain and separated in small metal pens because they will try to suckle each other since they aren’t allowed to be with their mothers; and even the free-ranging bulls are described as merely “grass-eating machines” and graze on the graves of tropical forests; such is the best-case scenario.
Pablo got back to me to say there aren’t any internship opportunities this summer because they’re too busy getting the cacao thing off the ground. But there’s still hope for something in Costa Rica! It seems that the flaws here are almost like scars on a beautiful face, only reminding you how beautiful the face really is, because the problems here are things like “the pasture land we put in reserves isn’t regenerating into forest fast enough!” The US wishes we had problems like that. I wonder if things are actually getting better fast enough to counteract the things getting worse, and I hope what I work on will make some sort of impact, however small.
MARKET DAY
Transect day! After a morning run and breakfast, we all got together to draw a transect through the route across Guanacaste we took yesterday. Unfortunately it was hot even for me, and since we stayed up late playing rummy and bananagrams and Monopoly Deal last night, I was sleepy. But I got to work with Saja, which was a pleasure, and we were all motivated by the promise of going to the market in the afternoon. And indeed our sections and sketches turned out beautifully, and it was worth doing to get a better understanding of the lay of the land.
After lunch and a brief crit, we took the bus to see prefab government starter homes, and the garbage dump. The dump was strangely beautiful, with all the trees wearing garbage bags like prayer flags. The wind drove white dust into our eyes and mouths, but the place was surprisingly alive. Flies, swooping birds, mutts poking around, and people picking through the trash to look for recyclables and anything valuable. They remind me of the dump dwellers in The Ear, The Eye, and The Arm.
But we were able to leave, able to go to the outdoor farmers’ market in Liberia. Plantains, bananas, pineapples, coconuts, oranges (that were green), and tomatoes seemed to dominate, but there were also breadfruits, guavas, passionfruits, chayotes, cassavas, and more. I got a fresh pipa, young coconut water straight from the nut, and a single bananita for free, and we all decided to get fresh ingredients to make guacamole and palm ceviche. This turned out to be a good idea for me, as dinner was just fries and the insides of a veggie burger. Saja and I made the ceviche while Lissy and Mickey, thick as thieves, made the guacamole, and then we all talked and played card games at Colgate’s little cabin. I also managed a long conversation with Johnny in broken Spanish. Excellente!
PSYCHEDELIC WAVES
Tonight we sat under the stars of the milky way and watched electric waves made psychedelic by the fluorescing algae as we waited for a glimpse of a sea turtle. We saw one emerging from the waves, but faced with a bunch of gawkers with red tinted flashlights, she headed back in. Later we saw one digging her nest, perhaps the same one, but Saja pointed out how awkward and stressful this must be for the turtle. And you know? She might be right. Many others in our group stood back, expressing doubts.
We spent the morning driving to the coast, and after lunch we got an introduction to the Osional reserve and picked up trash from the beach. Then we went to another, less protected beach for a couple of hours, where I started to read The Hunger Games, sketched the waves crashing on the rocks, and hunted for colorful shells amongst the white knobs of coral.
Back to wildlife: today Johnny spotted a giant toad on our way back from the beach! It was maybe ten inches in diameter, and Johnny says it spits poison. Today I am not thankful for sand, but I am thankful the only thing that attacks us successfully are the biting gnats. And for being stuck in this swirling universe, with the faculties to look out into the night sky and know it.
A RASTAFARIAN DRAGON
Today was fruit day! I woke up all too early to music from a local surf festival, and went for a walk with Angela, before eating a breakfast of papaya, pineapple, banana, and a bit of gallo pinto and a spoonful of granola. Then we drove to Tamarindo, a tourist town on a much more crowded beach, stopping only for a flat tire. At that point I had one of Cathy’s green oranges from the market, which I basically peeled a hole in and sucked out the delicious vanilla-tinged juice. We did some initial tourist shopping, and then I got a smoothie for lunch. Blackberry (mora), mango, and orange, whole fruit and ice blended and served in a big cup for only 1000 colones: two dollars! I thought I would be hungry soon, but that thing filled me up for hours. I spent much too much time trying to find the perfect mango wood bowl, but ended up getting only a two-dollar coconut wood spoon and spending the rest of my time playing frisbee in the water and getting sunburned. I then grabbed another smoothie for the bus home: melon, passionfruit, and watermelon (sandia). Only another flat tire, some gas station snacks, and a conversation about music bands lay between us and La Flor, where we ate chips and salsa while Ari regaled us with a ridiculous and hilarious story about a Scottish rum runner, a Rastafarian dragon, and a high OCD kraken, all inspired by my knee scar. This has redeemed him from a day where he stomped on my foot, almost elbowed me in the face through the window, and kept creepily staring past me out my window from across the bus. Okay, so maybe not completely redeemed. We then tried once again to put on a movie night, but that fizzled out, so I read Hunger Games instead!
MICKEY AND I TEAM UP
Yesterday was not a very eventful day, as we just went to another beach where all the Ticos hang out that had burning hot sand and calm waters. I simply sat under a scrubby tree and devoured The Hunger Games, and after a late lunch and wandering around another tourist town, I spent the evening reading as well. In fact, I was able to finish the book before breakfast this morning.
In the morning we did research and development for our projects, and my cashew milk farm started to develop in a different direction as I talked with Colgate and inevitably Mickey. The two of us decided to team up, which will honestly be much more fun. Plus we work well together. By three in the afternoon we had pages of diagrams and a few key questions to ask Carlos tomorrow — if he doesn’t get called away to another meeting,
Basically we are looking at developing a community core for Martina Bustos around the leaky communal water faucets. You create a food forest for sustenance, and feed it with waste water from an adjacent shower and sink, and composted scraps from the kitchen, a composting toilet, and even the dump. Then we can take those systems and develop a pre-fab development community based around a central courtyard edible garden and park, the sustainable version of the Levitt Town of Costa Rica. We called this urban reforestation.
The afternoon I was completely beat, so mostly I just read and waited for dinner. This meal was oddly spartan, just vegan vegetable pasta for all and some buttered bread for everyone besides me. It was good nonetheless, especially with that brown sauce they call Lizano Salsa. Afterwards we met to share our ideas, every one of which was fascinating and potentially we could integrate them all together. One thing, though: Colgate has this bad habit of only ever talking to Mickey, even if it’s about what someone else had just presented. Earlier when he was talking to just Mickey and myself, he stood next to me but didn’t let me get a word in edgewise, talking about what he wanted to regardless of the direction I might try to turn the conversation. Apparently he does this with everyone.
Two more things before I forget: last night we played one-sentence stories over dinner, and it was wonderfully good fun. I even managed to save some from becoming totally skeevy by adding a fairy tale twist!
MANCHA VERSUS SPEED
My butt hurts. This morning we went off on a horseback tour of the mango, rice, and sugarcane fields at La Flor, and of course I got the slow horse. Mancha. He had two speeds, a leisurely walk and a bouncy trot that wasn’t much faster, and he tripped a lot. At one point I let him lag too far behind the group, and as soon as the last horse rounded the corner and out of view, Mancha took off. Now, my stirrups were too long, so my feet had been free for most of the ride, so now it was all I could do to hold on with my thighs. Actually, it was really fun. And the only time my pelvis wasn’t being crushed against the mortar of the saddle. On the ride we also saw a white owl swoop right in front of us, and we munched on tamarind beans. Perfect because I seem to be hungry no matter how much I eat today!
After lunch Mickey and I worked as best we could with heat-addled and sleep-deprived brains for several hours, and then because Carlos was stuck in traffic, we went for a walk with Lissy and saw a cara cara eagle. Following a simple dinner of salad and french fries, we presented to Carlos and discussed our ideas with him for hours into the evening. Good, but now my butt hurts, my hands are sunburned, and I’m tired again — hopefully Colgate gives us the morning off!
Today I am thankful that I didn’t fall off my horse, that I have a nice body that I don’t mind showing off a bit at the pool, and for getting to work with Mickey, who is alway ready to brainstorm and who put up with my inability to concentrate today.
THE BIG GRILL
Once again I combine two days in one! The first involved working in the morning, and meeting the Earth University students in the afternoon. They only come to campus one day a week, and otherwise volunteer and work on their sustainability projects. They seemed genuinely interested in our ideas, until we gradually dispersed into siesta. Mickey, Lissy, and I were going to go for a walk, but we ended up talking about our childhoods for an hour, laughing our heads off most of the time. For dinner we went back to the bar with the beer towers and the projectors running music videos from the 80s and 90s on the walls. Entertaining enough to be sure, but the party really got going when everyone but me had had several rounds of shots and god knows how many beers and margaritas and we started salsa dancing. Move those hips! When we finally got back, the fiesta continued as we made jokes on the bus and in the bunkhouse as Mickey tried to tell Lissy a story, about Lissea the fairy, Mitchkin the moth, and Sassafras the lizard (or maybe a fox), in the softest voice imaginable. Ari took over with some more nonsense in a Scottish accent plus a horse named Sugar Cane with deep baritone. Everyone found it hilarious, and I admit to laughing to all this until my abs hurt, but I think I liked the first kraken story more because we were all adding to it.
Today no one could be bothered to wake up early, so I went for a walk by myself. Justin, who drank by far the most last night, slept past breakfast. But Colgate got the worst of it by coming down with food poisoning so bad he was moaning in pain all night. Our party went off without him, back to Martina Bustos and to the prefab neighborhood. We met an old man in the barrio who lived right next to the water spigot and grew ornamental plants in his yard instead of food, and his two tiny grandchildren who ran around playing in a box and on some swings and looking adorable in our photos. We got our sixth flat tire before lunch, though, but afterwards we continued to a recycling center. Run by one woman and her dozen employees, they just had a giant pile of recyclables that they had to hustle to sort before the next bunch got dumped on top. Ripe for a new system to put in place, which is exactly what two Earth students were there to work out. Ari managed to overstay our welcome by asking a bajillion questions, slow as molasses — at some point he actually said, “Now I’m just trying to think of random questions.”
Anyway, before we came back to La Flor we stopped by the market again to pick up things to grill. This evening we had our cook out, and the staff put out candle votives around and even floating in the pool. They had a bunch of food too, so by the time we grilled everything, we had a true feast: palm ceviche, sweet pan-caramelized plantains, grilled pineapple, sweet peppers, chayote, and spring onions, sliced cantaloupe and watermelon and some unknown fruit that tastes like cooked sweet potato, plus salad, chips with salsa, guacamole, and pureed frijoles, yuca (aka cassava aka manioc), and meat of several varieties. We get the leftovers for lunch tomorrow, and we won’t finish it all then, either!
ONE MORE DAY AT THE BEACH
Colgate made an appearance at breakfast, apparently stabilized but checking in with the doctor anyway. He surprised us by suggesting we go to the beach after working in the morning, which made everyone excited. Beth and I exchanged ideas, with Mickey and Caitrin joining in soon after, and then I did plant research until lunch. Now I know everything about growing papayas. Then it was off to Playas del Cocos! Wait, where’s Ari? We made it five minutes out before realizing he wasn’t on the bus. Gosh darn it, Ari. But we all made it, and I spent a relaxing couple hours finishing the second Hunger Games book and fending off the ants that kept exploring me under the shade of irrigated palms while others played frisbee or swam or suntanned. We also got in a few rounds of Monopoly Deal, which Caitrin can’t stop playing.
With the blessing of the absent Colgate, we stayed late, wandering around shops as the sun set, drinking margaritas and pina coladas (or in my case, tap water), and finally gathering for dinner at a place called “Beach Bums” named appropriately for its beach-front location and the slow, sloppy service. They kept messing up and bringing things we hadn’t ordered, and it took an hour and a half to get our food. At this point everyone but a select few, namely myself, Johnny, and Justin (who Colgate said ahead of time was only allowed two drinks), were pretty well on their way to drunk. The giant fishbowl margarita certainly didn’t help. I had a small sip, and not having eaten since before noon (at this point nine hours ago), I could feel my head start to buzz unpleasantly as soon as it hit my bloodstream. I can’t imagine how Mickey, Lissy, and Caitrin could down half the one-liter glass and be conscious!
It was fun, though, and the place next door had some live music that kept me dancing in my seat. The bill was a small hell to work out, but Beth had sobered up enough by then to help me sort it out, and finally we were on the road again. Ending our last night in Costa Rica. Only after getting on the bus did this fact hit me: then I knew why everyone was dragging the evening out as long as possible. No fear of inconveniencing Johnny or angering Colgate would overcome our reluctance to leave. The only reason I didn’t feel the same was that beaches and bars bore me in and of themselves, but there is a sadness when I think that we won’t have this same dynamic back in Providence. Living and traveling and going through stress together forms a tight but not always long-lasting bond, and the dynamic will change when we disperse back into our own lives.